'The Antarctic continent provided me with everything that I value most solitude, isolation, commitment, technical difficulty and a magnificent environment ...' Thus Erhard Loretan describes his two magnificent Antarctic solo climbs in a region where challenging climbing, virgin summits and true adventure can still be found. In the Himalaya, 1996 was a year of tragedy- and some big issues could no longer be ignored. Some of these are tackled, from varying viewpoints, in this 102nd volume. The 1997 Alpine Journal gives a complete overview of the past year, covering expeditions, rock climbing, history, memoirs and book reviews. Writers include Kurt Diemberger, Sergei Efimov, Erhard Loretan, Stephen Venables, and many other leading mountaineers. With over 50 pages of black and white and colour photographs.
Contents
POLAR REGIONS Travels in Another World Erhard Loretan 3 Antarctica: Wilderness or Wasteland? Peter D Clarkson 8 On the North-West Wall of Ulvetanna Ivar Erik Tollefsen 13 Land of Fire Stephen Venables 22 Arctic Voices Derek Fordham 32 Snowy Summits in East Greenland Mike Fletcher & Anne-Marie NuttalI 39 The Great Cross Pillar Jerry Gore 47 The Great and Secret Show Warren Hollinger 52 Winterdance Gary Paulsen 59 EXPEDITIONS The Remotest Eight-thousander Jonathan Wakefield 71 with a Postscript J H Emlyn Jones 76 Ama Dablam: North-West Face T oma£Humar 80 Success and Tragedy on Haramosh II Dave Wilkinson 85 Baruntse West Face Sergei mfimov 93 Latok I Brendan Murphy 99 The Challenge of the Ogre Matthew Dickinson 103 Climbing and Trekking in SE Ladakh Harish Kapadia 107 Foolishly Following A F Mummery Roy Ruddle 111 A Ski Traverse of the Caucasus John Kentish 117 ABOVE AND BELOW THE SNOW-LINE Filming in High Places Kurt Diemberger 125 Emergency on Everest Audrey Salkeld 133 Reunion in the Rolwaling Dennis Davis 137 The Swedish Mountains Ulf Carlsson 144 The Atlas End to End Hamish M Brown 148 Cordillera de Cocapata, Bolivia Evelio Echevarria 154 THE BIG ISSUES The Effects of Change on Mountaineering Ethics Trevor Braham 163 The Future of Mountaineering lan McNaught-Davis 169 Commercial Expeditions Jon Tinker 173 Bolting in the Alpine Environment Paolo Vitah' 181 The Great Alpine Theme Park Pat Littlejohn 184 LOOKING BACK Beyond Gulmarg John Hunt 191 An Introduction to 'Midnight and Dawn ...' John Blacker 195 'Midnight and Dawn on the Summit of the Great Vignemale' Baron Bertrand de Lassus 197 HISTORY AND GEOGRAPHY Edward Whymper's Lecture Slides Peter Berg 209 Attilio Tissi, 1900-1959 Elinor Bevan 213 Exploration of the Bhutan Himalaya Michael Ward 219 One Hundred Years Ago C A Russell 230 AREA NOTES Edited by Jose Luis Bermudez 238 Contributions from: Jose Luis Bermudez, Chris Cheeseman, Lindsay Griffin, David Hamilton, Tony Howard, Harish Kapadia, Paul Knott, Bill O'Connor, Simon Richardson, Derek Rubio. Mount Everest Foundation: Expedition Reports 1994 Summarised by Bill Ruthven 289 Book Reviews Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman 298 In Memoriam Compiled by Geoffrey Templeman 333 Alpine Club Notes 364 Contributors 375 Index 381 Notes for Contributors 388